Greece Lux Traveler The insider's guide to luxury travel in Greece

Villas

Renting a Villa in Mykonos: Pick the Side Before You Pick the House

A villa is not a bigger hotel room. Different decisions, different failure modes, and on Mykonos the wind and the access road matter more than the photographs.

Whitewashed villas with private pools scattered across a dry Cycladic hillside above a turquoise bay at sunset
Illustration

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Why a villa, and when it is the wrong call#

A villa wins when there are six or more of you, when you want to eat at home at least half the time, and when privacy is the point. It stops winning when you are two people who intend to be out every night. At that count a suite at a good hotel costs less, puts you nearer the restaurants, and spares you the car.

The honest test: if nobody in the group will use the pool before noon, you are paying a large premium for a view you will mostly see in the dark.

The areas, in the order we would pick them#

Rankings here are about renting a house, not about where the best beach is. A superb beach with no villas above it is no use to you.

Where to rent, by area

A villa terrace and infinity pool high above a sheltered turquoise bay at golden hourIllustration

Agios Lazaros

South coast, above Psarou

The best villa address on the island and priced like it. West-facing slopes, so the pools hold sun until it goes down, sheltered from the meltemi, and Nammos is a walk or a two-minute drive. Stock is genuinely good here rather than merely expensive.

Sunset sideShelteredWalk to Psarou

Rate bandHighest

Groups who want the scene within walking distance and will pay to be above it.

See Agios Lazaros villas
A long rectangular infinity pool on a flat open plot facing the sunset, no neighbours in sightIllustration

Aleomandra and Kanalia

West coast, 15 minutes from town

Where the big modern houses are - long infinity pools, flat plots, sunset straight ahead, and real distance from neighbours. You are committed to driving everywhere, which suits groups who intend to cook and swim more than they intend to queue.

Most privacySunsetCar essential

Rate bandHigh

Larger groups who want space and seclusion over walkability.

See Aleomandra villas
A relaxed villa terrace and pool just above a calm sandy bayIllustration

Ornos

South coast, nearest practical beach

The most sensible choice for families and the one area where you can rent a villa and still walk to a beach, tavernas and a supermarket. Sheltered bay, calm water, short airport run. Less dramatic than the west coast and considerably easier to live in.

FamiliesWalkableCalm water

Rate bandHigh

Groups with children, or anyone who does not want to drive after dinner.

See Ornos villas
A plunge pool and timber deck looking west across a channel to a low island at sunsetIllustration

Agios Ioannis

South-west, facing Delos

The sunset view everyone photographs, over the Delos channel, with a small beach below and far less traffic than Psarou. Quieter in the evening than its neighbours, which is either the attraction or the problem depending on the group.

Delos sunsetQuieterSmall beach

Rate bandHigh

Couples sharing a house, and anyone who eats in more than out.

See Agios Ioannis villas
A low villa set back behind a wide open sandy beach under dry hillsIllustration

Kalo Livadi and Kalafatis

East coast, 20 to 25 minutes from town

Wide family beaches, better value per square metre than anywhere on the south-west, and enough distance that the house feels like the holiday rather than a base. The trade is a real drive to town, which matters every single evening.

ValueFamily beachesFar from town

Rate bandMid to high

Longer stays where the beach, not Chora, is the daily plan.

See east coast villas
A cubic whitewashed villa on a rocky shoreline with harbour lights in the distanceIllustration

Tourlos and Houlakia

North-west, by the new port

Cheapest proximity to Chora on the island, with sunset views and a short hop into town. Swimming is off rocks rather than sand, and you hear the port. For a short stay built around the town rather than the water, that is a fair trade.

Near townRocky swimmingLower cost

Rate bandMid

Three or four nights centred on Chora, not on a beach.

See Tourlos villas
An inland stone and whitewashed house among olive trees and dry stone field wallsIllustration

Ano Mera

Inland, the island's other village

The only part of Mykonos where a large house is merely expensive rather than extraordinary. A working village with a monastery, a square and tavernas priced for people who live here. No sea view, no walk to a beach, and a car is not optional.

Best valueReal villageNo sea view

Rate bandMid

Groups who would rather spend the difference on the boat.

See Ano Mera villas
A low villa behind a glass windbreak on an exposed coast, grass bending in strong windIllustration

Panormos, Ftelia and Agios Sostis

North coast

The most beautiful land on the island and the hardest to use in high summer. From mid-July the meltemi arrives across this coast and an exposed terrace becomes unusable for days at a time. In June or late September it is the best value on Mykonos; in August, know what you are buying.

SpectacularWindy in AugustShoulder season

Rate bandMid to high

June and September stays, and anyone who actively likes wind.

See north coast villas

Booking it without getting burnt#

  1. Fix the dates to the changeover first

  2. Shortlist by area, then by house

  3. Ask five questions in writing

  4. Price the extras before you commit

  5. Book the car and the transfer at the same time

Frequently asked questions

How far ahead do I need to book a villa for August?

The best houses for August are taken between October and February. By April you are choosing from what is left, and by June the market is thin and priced accordingly.

Is a car really necessary?

In Ornos, Tourlos or Chora you can manage without one. Everywhere else on this list, no - and an ATV is not a serious answer for a group with luggage, shopping and children.

Which side avoids the wind?

The south and south-west: Psarou, Agios Lazaros, Ornos, Agios Ioannis, Platis Gialos. The meltemi hits the north coast hardest, from roughly mid-July to the end of August.

Can I rent a villa for three or four nights?

In June and late September, often. In peak August, rarely - and where you can, the nightly rate is usually higher than a seven-night booking would have been.

Is a villa cheaper than a hotel?

Per person, for six or more, usually yes - and more so if you eat at the house. For two people it is almost never cheaper once a car, a cleaning fee and transfers are counted.