Greece Lux Traveler The insider's guide to luxury travel in Greece

Villas

Lefkada Villas: The Cliff Side or the Channel Side

One island, two entirely different holidays, separated by a mountain ridge and about forty minutes of driving.

A villa terrace on a green slope above a sheltered channel dotted with small wooded islands
Illustration

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One island, two coasts#

A ridge runs down the middle of Lefkada and the two sides of it have almost nothing in common.

The west is the famous one: chalk-white cliffs dropping into violently blue water, Porto Katsiki and Egremni reached by long flights of steps, and almost nowhere to put a harbour. Beautiful, exposed, and in places genuinely hard to get down to.

The east faces the mainland across a narrow channel scattered with wooded private islands. It is flat, green, sheltered and full of boats. This is where the villa stock is, where the tavernas sit on the water, and where you can swim at seven in the evening without the sea moving.

Most people picture the west and then stay on the east. That is usually the right decision - but it helps to know you are making it.

Six places to look#

Where to rent, by area

A villa above a calm channel scattered with small wooded islands and anchored yachtsIllustration

Nydri and Perigiali

East coast, the channel

The centre of gravity. A sheltered waterfront, boats leaving all day for Meganisi and the islets, and the deepest villa stock on the island on the green slopes behind. Busy in August and not remotely exclusive, which is part of why it works for families.

Most stockBoats and isletsBusy

Rate bandMid

Families and groups who want the water, not the cliffs.

See Nydri villas
A villa terrace above a narrow fjord-like inlet with yachts moored along a stone quayIllustration

Sivota

South-east, a deep enclosed bay

The prettiest harbour on the island - a narrow fjord-like inlet with tavernas on the quay and yachts stern-to against them. Villas sit on the steep slopes above. Quieter and more grown-up than Nydri, with less to do if the group needs entertaining.

Best harbourQuietSteep slopes

Rate bandMid to high

Couples and groups who want dinner on a quay, not a strip.

See Sivota villas
A villa above a small west-coast village with white chalk cliffs curving away beyondIllustration

Agios Nikitas

West coast, the only real village

The one proper settlement on the dramatic side. A single street running down to a small beach, with the big west-coast beaches a short drive south. The compromise position for anyone who wants cliffs but not isolation.

West coastWalkable villageNear the big beaches

Rate bandMid to high

Travellers who came for Porto Katsiki and Egremni.

See Agios Nikitas villas
A villa above a wide shallow bay with dozens of small sails out in steady windIllustration

Vasiliki

South coast

One of Europe's most reliable windsurfing bays, with an afternoon thermal that arrives like clockwork. Also the ferry point for Kefalonia and Ithaca. If nobody in the group sails, the same wind makes a pool terrace less pleasant after two o'clock.

WatersportsReliable windFerry links

Rate bandMid

Groups built around sailing, surfing or island-hopping.

See Vasiliki villas
A villa beside a working town, a shallow lagoon and the causeway to the mainlandIllustration

Lefkada Town and the lagoon

North, by the causeway

Not a resort - a working town with a market, a marina and Venetian-era churches, beside a shallow lagoon full of birds. Closest to the airport, furthest from the beaches people come for, and the best option out of season.

Working townNear airportOff-season

Rate bandMid

Short stays, shoulder season, and arrivals late in the day.

See Lefkada Town villas
A villa with an infinity pool above a long line of white sea cliffs at sunsetIllustration

Tsoukalades

North-west, above the first cliffs

The high ground where the west coast begins, with long views down the cliff line and sunsets straight into the Ionian. Ten minutes to town, fifteen to the first big beaches. Exposed to weather off the sea, which is the trade for the view.

Sunset viewsHigh groundExposed

Rate bandMid

Groups who want the west-coast view with the town still in reach.

See Tsoukalades villas

Getting the decision right#

  1. Choose your coast first

  2. Decide whether wind is a feature

  3. Check the descent to the beach

  4. Work out how you are arriving

  5. Book a boat day early

Frequently asked questions

East coast or west coast?

East for swimming, boats and family logistics. West for scenery and sunsets. If it is a first visit with children, the east coast is the easier week by a distance.

Do I need to fly to Preveza?

Not necessarily - a great many people drive from Athens or Thessaloniki, which is the point of Lefkada. Preveza is forty minutes away if you prefer to fly.

Is Nydri too busy?

The waterfront is, in August. The villas on the slopes above it are quiet, and you are a two-minute drive from the boats.

Can I visit Kefalonia or Ithaca from here?

Yes - ferries run from Vasiliki and Nydri in season. Ithaca in particular is an easy day.

When is Lefkada at its best?

June and September. The island is green well into summer because of the mountains, and the water on the east coast is warm from June onward.